a place in the world

France / Writing

people watching by the Panthéon

Made it back to Paris from Versailles at around half-past six and headed to the Panthéon, unfortunately, it was already closed when we arrived. The Panthéon is a church and mausoleum, a Neoclassical structure originally built by Louis XV for St. Genevieve. Pierre & Marie Curie, Voltaire, Alexandre Dumas, and many other French personalities are resting here. It was modeled after the Pantheon in Rome.

With nothing else planned for the evening, we just sat and people watched. The surrounding buildings in front of Place du Pantheon, I believe, are parts of La Sorbonne.


Dinner at the flat: store-bought caprese and a quiche from a neighborhood patisserie.

Panthéon
Place du Panthéon, 5e
Metro: Cardinal Lemoine / RER: Luxembourg
Daily 10am-6pm (last entrance 5:15pm)
7€ adults, 4.50€ ages 18-25, free for children 17 below
Covered by the Paris Museum Pass

Food / France / Writing

Angelina at Versailles

Angelina is an old-fashioned Parisian tea salon and according to numerous sources, it serves the best hot chocolate in Paris. From a tiring day of walking at The Louvre, Tuileries, and Place de la Concorde, we walked the stretch of Rue de Rivoli only to find the place closed. Luckily, Angelina is also at Chateau de Versailles and we had no problems finding it this time around.

I am a coffee person and I do not usually care for hot chocolate, but this luscious pot of chocolat l’Africain really is something. Chocolat l’Africain with creme Chantilly, good for two people.

A’s chestnut cream cake called the Montblanc– meringue, whipped cream, and creme chantilly filling with chestnut cream.
Montblanc

My millefeuille, layers of puff pastry with custard / pastry cream.
Millefeuille
Millefeuille

Millefeuille literally translates to a thousand sheets, and it indeed has so many flaky layers.
so flaky

Angelina
Pavillon d’Orleans
Chateau de Versailles
78000 Versailles, France

France / Writing

the grandeur of Chateau de Versailles

We did not have a good start to this day, woke up later than we planned and ended up reaching Versailles at almost noon. It was a 20-kilometer trip via the suburban RER (RER C, around €6,20 round trip).

The size of the chateau grounds is indeed daunting, and we did not dare and attempt to see most of everything. Apart from the massive chateau, the gardens are more than 100 hectares. There are also canals, the Grand Trianon, Marie-Antoinette’s estate, several statues, Orangerie, colonnades, the French Pavillion.

Walking to the palace entrance, to the royal Gate. 260 feet long adorned with 100,000 gold leaves.
entrance to Chateau de Versailles

If you plan to visit, either come very early or late, round closing time. If you don’t then you most probably have to endure this. Truth be told, the waiting time is not ridiculously long, the line is relatively fast moving, but seeing this queue… it probably is the longest queue I ever had to be on.

the long queue at Versailles

Some other snaps while waiting

A toutes les gloires de la France

Finally in! Palace courtyard.

Versailles grounds

the Sun King Louis XIV and Marie-Antoinette’s portraits
Louis and Marie-Antoinette

The Royal Chapel and one of the displays in the throne exhibition
Royal Chapel and the throne exhibition

La Grand Galerie, Hall of Mirrors
La Grande Galerie at Versailles

Versailles probably set the standard of court life in those days. The extravagance is ridiculous, and even visible to the public eye. In the days of the Ancien Régime, peasants were free to enter the premises and gawk at the nobles. Even dining became such a spectacle, as commoners are allowed to watch the royals eat, several cloches of fine French food lay at their table while the peasants had barely anything to eat.

The King’s and Queen’s Chambers
The King's chambers at Versailles

The Queen's chambers

Versailles is a huge complex, and we only visited the main palace. Here is one area from the lovely gardens.
Versailles gardens

Books / Writing

Reading: The Amateur Gourmet

I have been reading more frequently now, mostly memoirs. Going back to reading somehow activated a part of my brain with distracting thoughts, including delusions of writing my own memoir someday, being fully aware that it will be severely uninteresting.

The Amateur Gourmet

The most recent book I’ve finished is Adam RobertsAmateur Gourmet which I enjoyed.

One of my favorite parts from the book was when Adam met up with food critic Ruth Reichl to talk about the ways of fine dining.

The Sixth Commandment: Be Intelligently Critical
The waiter exits and Ruth tastes. The salad immediately fails her scrutiny.
“This isn’t good,” she says matter-of-factly. “The corn isn’t good– it’s starchy, it doesn’t have much flavor.”
I taste too and nod my agreement.
“Whatever flavor it has,” she continues, “is obscured by the goat cheese, the chanterelles, and the nuts.”
The prognosis is thoughtfully delivered and done so in a way that justifies her status as a great arbiter of taste. She’s articulate in a way that most diners aren’t because they don’t know how to be. Her pronouncements are those of a good writer: they are specific. She doesn’t say “yummy” or “bad.” She says “the corn is starchy” and “the flavor is obscured.” She knows her field, she knows how to analyze, she knows how to be critical.
And this is true of anyone who’s passionate about a subject. Ask a movie buff what he thinks of the new Almodovar film and he’ll answer you with great enthusiasm and flair. Ask a wrestling fan how he feels about cage matches, and he’ll wax lyrical for hours. The lesson is that once you care about food, once you care about dining, you will pay more attention. Understand why some dishes succeed while others fail, notice how a dish is composed, what flavors it contains, how those flavors are contrasted, the freshness of the ingredients, the level of seasoning, the overall balance. Once you start noticing these things your ability to judge a restaurant on its merits will improve immeasurably. Ruth Reichl got to where she is because she paid attention. She pays attention now and I attempt to do the same.

 

And so from here on out I will also attempt to do the same. Such a nice takeaway for this writing space.

France / Writing

Walking along Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe

From La Sainte Chapelle we headed to Place de la Concorde, which is at the far end of Champs-Élysées.

Place de la Concorde used to be Place de la Révolution, the square where they hold the executions during the revolution. More than 2,700 people were guillotined here, including Queen Marie Antoinette. The guillotine is no longer, and two fountains were built at the square. They have become the iconic fountains of Paris. They were modelled after Roman fountains at St. Peter’s Square and Piazza Navona. Just between the two fountains is the 3,300 year-old Luxor Obelisk, a gift from the Egyptian government to France. It used to mark the entrance of the Luxor Temple.

Place de la Concorde

From Place de la Concorde, the Arc de Triomphe is at the other end of the 3.2 kilometre stretch of Champs-Élysées. We originally planned on walking but the sun was blazing and we were simply too tired. Took the metro and got off at Charles de Gaule – Etoile.
Tip: don’t cross the roundabout to get to Arc de Triomphe. There is an underground pedestrian passageway. A group of elderly American ladies attempted to cross in the middle of bustling traffic, needless to say it caused quite a spectacle, with the gendarmes yelling at them and all.
Champs Elysees

Ac de Triomphe

The Paris Museum Pass covers the entrance to the Arc. (A ticket would normally cost 9€.) We took the stairs 284 steps up. There is a gift shop and a couple of exhibitions at the mezzanine area.

inside the Arc de Triomphe

atop the Arc de Triomphe

Twelve main avenues converge at Arc de Triomphe.

Baron Haussmann absolutely planned this city so well. Note that the buildings almost look the same, and are of the same height.
view from Arc de Triomphe

view from Arc de Triomphe

view from Arc de Triomphe

Seeing this made me smile!
sweet moment at Arc de Triomphe

Arc De Triomphe
Place Charles de Gaulle
Website
Metro: Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile

Food / Philippines

Instagram Photos Roundup

Mostly food pictures from the past months, taken with my cameraphone.

House-made pulled pork sandwich with pickled onions, BBQ sauce, dill pickle at ‘Cue Modern Barbecue (Bonifacio High Street Central, Taguig)
I expected a tangy barbecue flavor from the pulled pork but was a bit disappointed that it tasted quite like Southern-style chili without the heat; it was sour. Not bad but I really did expect a ranch-barbecue flavor. The sweet potato fries are really good.
Cue's pulled pork sandwich

Roast beef and chicken spinach lasagna at Mom and Tina’s Bakery Cafe (Katipunan, QC)
My past dining experiences at Mom and Tina’s Makati left much to be desired, but gladly this was a good meal. Roast beef looked dry, though.
Mom & Tina's

Mom & Tina's lasagna

Garlic Tapa Overload and salmon dish with wild rice at Mr. Jones (Greenbelt 5, Makati)
Always love the tapa at this place. Red / wild rice is supposed to be good for you, but it’s rather hard to wash down.
Mr. Jones garlic tapa overload

Mr. Jones salmon

French deli sandwich at Kuppa (Fort Global City, Taguig)
I never had a sandwich with melted cheese sauce, and this one is not bad at all. The potato wedges were tasty and were seasoned well. After going on a food tour a few weeks back I realise that I have new-found respect for local growers / roasters, establishments buying fair trade, and generally I ought to start supporting the smaller shops and less of the bigwig money-making empires. Kuppa is originally from Bacolod and they roast their own coffee beans in the store.
Kuppa deli sandwich

I am one of those people who can eat the same food everyday and not get tired even after a while. I used to eat tuna sandwiches everyday. At work I have McDonald’s cheeseburgers on a semi-daily basis. That being said, I can eat mango sticky rice and/or pad thai everyday. Too bad it’s not as accessible and affordable in Manila. These are from food shops at the Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport.
mango sticky rice!

pad thai

T fed me a pack of Indomie instant migoreng while I was over at their place and I liked it a lot I decided to bring several packs home, only to find out they are also locally available, at SM (P95 for a pack of 5, or P20 for one). The Amazon reviews are funny. “The crack of the ramen world. How can something this cheap be so bloody good. It’s ramen, so it’s as healthy as styrofoam. But oh it is so worth it.”
Indomie mee goreng topped with a fried egg!

Roasted chicken and cereal prawns at Wee Nam Kee (Ayala Triangle Gardens)
This is probably the last proper dinner I had with family, at a time my loved one was still well enough to go out. I cannot even begin to say how this year and the last have been so tough. Hoping & praying for more happy family dinners, despite everything.
Wee Nam Kee roast chicken

Wee Nam Kee cereal prawns

France / Writing

amazing light and color at La Sainte-Chapelle

I have been to many grand churches in the past and I could say for sure that Sainte-Chapelle is by far the most magnificent. Originally built to house the relics from the True Cross and the crown of thorns, the chapel is near Notre Dame de Paris, by the Palais Justice and Conciergerie complex. It might be much smaller than the grand churches of Paris, and the exterior is modest and fairly simple, but the interior is an overwhelming vision of light and color.

La Sainte Chapelle

I once read parts of Alice Steinbach’s travel memoir Without Reservations and it made mention of Sainte-Chapelle, as one of the most unforgettable sights in Paris. “You must stand in the light.” I knew I had to go.

The big crowd did not allow me to bathe in the light and immerse in the place’s grandness and stillness, it was still so lovely nonetheless.

Sainte Chapelle stained glass

The stained glass windows contain 1,134 scenes depicting the Christian story, from The Creation to The Apocalypse. To me they do not appear visible enough to be viewed from the ground level, perhaps one needs to stay in a better vantage point.
La Sainte Chapelle stained glass
la Sainte Chapelle rose window

It still looked extraordinary even with half of the panels under restoration– notice that the other half is darker than the right. Thankfully no scaffolding when we were there.

Sainte-Chapelle
http://sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/
Open every day
1-Mar to 31-Oct: 9:30am to 6pm
1-Nov to 28-Feb: 9am to 5pm
15-May to 15-Sept: last admission at 9 pm.
Cashdesks close 30 minutes earlier
Admission 8 euros, covered by the Paris Museum Pass

France / Writing

visiting the Musée du Louvre

The Louvre is one of the world’s biggest and most visited museums with a massive 35,000 piece collection. It will take you 100 days without any breaks to look at each piece for 30 seconds.

We transferred accommodations and now stay at the Chatelet area, 1st arrondisement, which is much closer to the Louvre but thanks to our bad sense of direction, we still got lost on the way to the museum, wasting an hour or two trying to figure out how to get there.

We finally reached the museum, stayed for a bit outside to take pictures and people-watch.
Louvre and I.M. Pei's pyramid

outside the Louvre

La Pyramide, and La Pyramide Inversée, made popular by Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code. The Carrousel du Louvre is by this area, below the Louvre. Plenty of gift shops, an Apple store, McDonald’s, and a really fancy paid WC which I really liked.

La Pyramide Inversee

Louvre pyramide

I am really not credible enough to provide definitive directions, which piece can be found in which floor or wing, Denon, Richelieu, or Sully… the place was disorienting to say the least, we just walked around semi-aimlessly prioritizing a few pieces we want to see.

me and A

The Grecian pieces. Venus de Milo (Aphrodite, 100 BC) is one of the most popular sculptures. Found in 1820 in the the Greek island Melos (now Milo) – it is one of the few rare Greek originals, as most Grecian statues are actually Roman copies.

Venus de Milo
Another one of the most popular Greek originals – The Winged Victory of Samothrace (Nike of Samothrace, 190 BC). The windblown details of the gown, and the stance, I find so striking. We spent a long time gazing at this piece. Said to be created to commemorate a naval victory in Rhodes. One of the detached hands are also on display at the Louvre.
Winged Victory

Leonardo da Vinci’s Madonna of the Rocks, and his Mona Lisa.
Madonna on the Rocks and the Mona Lisa

These are the people photographing the Mona Lisa (La Joconde)

people photographing the Mona Lisa

A couple viewing the massive painting opposite the Mona Lisa – Paolo Veronese’s The Wedding at Cana. The scene where Jesus turned water into wine.
Paolo Veronese's Wedding at Cana

I really wanted to see this Eugene Delacroix, Liberty Leading the People (La Liberté guidant le peuple), from the Coldplay record cover (ha-ha). It also inspired the Statue of Liberty.
Eugene Delacroix's Liberty Leading the People

Other pieces I wanted to see but we couldn’t find them: Cupid & Psyche, The Code of Hammurabi, Egyptian antiquities.

After seeing another dizzying number of art pieces, rested at one of the benches at the Jardins des Tuilieries, just outside the Louvre. Watched a pair of lovers sprawled like so.
lovers

Musée du Louvre
Open everyday except Tuesdays, 9AM – 6PM
Wednesdays & Fridays 9AM – 9:45PM
75058 Paris – France
Métro: Palais-Royal Musée du Louvre
+33 (0)140205317

Food / France

Crêperie St.Michel

After visiting the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Shakespeare & Co. bookshop, we walked around the Latin Quarter to get something to eat. We planned on getting home early today, back to our rented room at the 13th arrondisement, as we are hauling our luggage and switching accommodations to the 1st arrondisement. After a few minutes of walking, we luckily stumbled upon this little crêperie.

Grouchy-looking monsieur making our crêpe
Creperie Saint-Michel

I love a savory crêpe. Ham & cheese for me (jambon et fromage?). Look at how much cheese is in there!
Creperie Saint-Michele
Creperie Saint-Michele - cheese and ham crepe

Banana-nutella for A.
banana-Nutella crepe at Creperie Saint-Michele

Went up the second level where there are seats. Quite possible the best one I ever had. Do not ever underestimate street food and hole-in-the-wall joints. At about 5 euros, really so good and filling enough for dinner.
Creperie Saint-Michele

The Greek eatery from across the street– I just found it amusing that the ‘apprentice’ looks so very Chinese, and he reminds me of characters from the Lao Fu Tzi comics I used to ‘read’ when I was younger.
Greek restaurant in Paris

Crêperie St. Michel
Rue de la Huchette
(Quartier Latin)
Paris 75005

France / Writing

browsing through Shakespeare and Company

From Notre Dame we crossed the bridge to the Left Bank to get to Shakespeare and Company, the cosy little English-language bookshop in the academic Quartier Latin.

Shakespeare & Company

Shakespeare and Company has been around since 1951, and since then the bookstore has been hosting writers in exchange for a couple of hours of voluntary work. It has provided shelter to some 50,000 people now.
Shakespeare & Co.

The shop is full of new books as well as used ones. Apparently, there are also 8 makeshift beds all over the place, for the writers to sleep in.
inside Shakespeare & Company

A is one of the biggest literature lovers I know and she purchased a hardbound book here. I confess that I am sort of a mild hoarder of books, mostly of the travel and food literature variety, but I find the prices here rather steep, perhaps the markup is mostly because of the location and nostalgia. At this point, I’m perfectly fine scouring the Booksale outlets back home.

One of my favorite movies, Before Sunset, filmed here so it makes the place quite special as well.

Shakespeare and Company
http://www.shakespeareandcompany.com
37 rue de la Bûcherie 75005 Paris
Weekdays: 10am – 11pm; Weekends: 11am – 11pm
Metro: St. Michel / Cluny / Sorbonne
Facebook || Twitter